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In keeping with the somewhat tangential but undeterminently memetic 
themes of universality and usanian influence....
- Wade
****
Romance, in Cosmo's World, Is Translated in Many Ways
By DAVID CARR
http://www.nytimes.com/2002/05/26/business/media/26COSM.html?pagewanted=print&
position=top
Forty magazine editors came from all over the world to a conference room 
in the TriBeCa Grand Hotel in Lower Manhattan last week searching for 
thoroughly American alchemy. They sat quietly, even reverently, waiting 
for that one white-hot piece of the puzzle that would put their magazine 
over the top. Before them stood Kate White, the editor in chief of the 
American version of Cosmopolitan. In their world, she is a demigoddess, 
the editor of a mothership with a circulation of 2.76 million.
PowerPoint slide No. 9 clicked into place: "What's Hot Now: Beefcake."
Ms. White paused so that the women, all of whom edit international 
versions of Cosmo, could absorb the deep implications of the trend, 
along with the impressive nearly naked male on the screen.
"You need portfolios that show hunky-looking guys," Ms. White said 
finally.
Ferocious scribbling ensued.
And no wonder. Each of the editors is intent on bringing Cosmo's tangy 
fusion of sex and empowerment to their homelands, and Hearst Magazines 
International is, more than ever, happy to help.
Despite abundant resentment abroad about United States cultural 
hegemony, Hearst is charging ahead with plans to expand overseas. Hemmed 
in by soaring costs and declining readership domestically, American 
publishers like Hearst are feeling a growing urgency to tap into the 
aspirations of women all over the world to conquer unanticipated 
markets. With a formula almost as closely guarded as Coca-Cola's  there 
is a secret 50-page instruction manual  Cosmopolitan, Hearst's naughty 
girlfriend of a magazine, has increased its circulation to 8.2 million 
worldwide, even extending its brand to places where readers have to hide 
the magazine from their husbands.
After adding nine editions in the last two years, Cosmo will soon 
publish in 50 countries, including the recently opened Latvian edition 
and a Kazakhstan Cosmo that makes its debut in September.
A product that seems as American as "Sex and the City" now flirts with 
newsstand shoppers on six of the seven continents and produces hundreds 
of millions of dollars in revenue for Hearst, suggesting that deep 
cleavage and thinner thighs have global legs.
"Things American are not viewed as negatively as we might read about," 
said George J. Green, president of Hearst Magazines International. 
"There's a huge appetite for these magazines out there."
The universal dialect in the world of Cosmo is romance followed very 
closely by overheated pillow talk. Cosmo appeals to women who are coming 
of age because they can sample adult pleasures without becoming enmeshed 
in adult worries.
These feelings are evidently transferable. "Underneath the veil or 
shmatte, every woman wants to be loved and cherished," said Helen Gurley 
Brown, who reinvented Cosmo in in 1965 and still wears a micro-miniskirt 
at 80.
Or as Grazyna Olbrych, the editor of Polish Cosmo, put it: "Cosmo is not 
about culture. When you are young, you want to have a young man who 
loves you and have great sex with him."
For Hearst and its Cosmo importers, the trick is to navigate Cosmo's 
universal message around a variety of political, social and linguistic 
obstacles. For example, replicating Cosmo's slightly depraved cover 
presentation in 28 languages can be difficult.
"In Finland, the words for `sexy' have about 35 letters and 15 umlauts," 
said Tina Totterman, editor of Finnish Cosmo, standing near the piano at 
an opening cocktail party.
The Cosmo mantra of "Fun, Fearless Female" requires a bit of a makeover 
to resonate with other far-flung audiences. In India, the birthplace of 
the Kama Sutra, there are no Cosmo articles about sexual positions. The 
mammoth Chinese version never mentions sex because it is forbidden, said 
the editor, Vera Xu. Instead, articles about uplifting cleavage are 
replaced by uplifting stories about youthful dedication, although there 
is still plenty of advice on how to look your best. Sex also gets less 
attention in the Swedish version, but for precisely the opposite reason: 
In a wide-open culture, the word has little of the sizzle that it has 
here.
In France, the editor, Anne Chabrol, also confronts a readership very 
comfortable  even bored, she says  with sexual matters. She has 
responded by running a contest asking in French "Does he cheat on you?" 
and the winner is awarded the services of a private detective to find 
out for sure.
Honoring local idiosyncrasy is critical, said Mr. Green and the editors. 
Ms. Totterman, the Finnish editor, said putting Britney Spears on the 
local cover of the "Fun, Fearless Female" issue, a special issue all the 
magazines publish, would not work in her market. It has to be someone 
Finnish, someone local readers can identify with. Similarly, the Hong 
Kong edition uses mostly Asian faces with pictures of local celebrities. 
But in China, there is still a hunger for Western images. "We are a 
developing country and just opening up to the West, so people are very 
interested in seeing what is going on in other places," Ms. Xu said.
Still, certain standards must be observed. The woman on the Cosmo cover 
 it is always a woman  should have large hair, remarkable features and 
not too much clothing.
"Hearst is a great partner, as long as you don't put a guy on the 
cover," said Ellen Verbeek, co-editor of Russian Cosmo along with Elena 
Myasnikova. Ms. Verbeek said that Cosmo fills a need for the young 
Russian woman. (Before Cosmo arrived in 1994, young Russian women had to 
choose generally between magazine titles that Hearst officials roughly 
translate as Factory Woman and Farming Woman.)
But those needs may be a bit different from those of the American Cosmo 
reader.
"We did an article about how to have sex when you live with your parents 
because so many young Russian couples can't afford to move out," Ms. 
Verbeek said.
In some places, business can get rough. Publishing glossy magazines in 
third world countries or crippled post-industrial economies goes beyond 
picking out chic clothes and riffing on the importance of good hair.
"I have no connections and in Hungary everyone has to deal with what is 
like the Mafia," said Anita Pocsik, the editor of Cosmo in Hungary. 
"They say I have to hire this person, and go to this printer. I give 
them nothing. I worked two years straight, standing at the printer and 
signing pages, because without that, nothing would get done."
Reda Gaudiamo, whose magazine has a circulation of 127,000 in Indonesia, 
the largest Islamic nation in the world, said she had received letters 
from Muslim groups saying she is "helping Indonesian women love sex too 
much."
She said, "I wrote to them and said this is what Indonesia needs." She 
added, "For a long time, we never talked about sex."
Still, she said, she does "tone down the sex articles."
The magazine is not welcome everywhere. Mr. Green said some conservative 
markets will remain unconquered. In 1984, the government of Singapore 
banned versions of the magazine that had been produced elsewhere. (It 
has subsequently authorized local production of Harper's Bazaar, a 
Hearst fashion magazine, but not Cosmo.) In general, Mr. Green said that 
the company emphasizes indigenous partnerships and locally produced 
content, which keep its products from becoming a focus of 
anti-Americanism.
"Nobody has ever tossed us," Mr. Green said. "That doesn't mean it 
couldn't happen, but we are not a political magazine." Indeed, any hint 
that a satellite magazine is forgoing articles about the "yummiest 
underthings" for issues of local moment will bring a stern letter from 
Hearst.
Last week, the Cosmo editors, who seemed like a novel flock of rare 
birds confined to a hotel conference room in New York, went on a 
shopping trip and melted completely into the trendy diversified crowd a 
few blocks north in SoHo. That day, a terrorist alert was issued for New 
York City, a reminder that the global footprint of the United States has 
many ramifications.
For the women touring New York, there was no shock of the new. American 
fashion, music, and now magazines have created Westernized outposts in 
countries all over the world. When the editors went out to the Park, a 
Chelsea nightclub, for an evening of dancing, they were struck by its 
resemblance to the clubs they left behind.
"This is just like the clubs back home," Ms. Olbrych, the editor from 
Poland, said with noticeable disappointment. "It's the same music and 
everybody just stands around looking at each other."
Of course, some differences do exist. Priya Ramani, the editor of Cosmo 
in India, fingered a $208 price tag on an obviously Indian garment at a 
boutique named Scoop in SoHo.
"This would cost $5 or $6 where I am from," she said.
That evening, the women piled into City Hall, a restaurant on Duane 
Street, for the closing event: a minipep rally on the brand called 
Cosmo. Cathleen P. Black, the president of Hearst Magazines, a unit of 
the Hearst Corporation, reminded them that in returning home, they would 
be returning to increasingly competitive markets.
Some will be fighting a familiar enemy. A small-format edition of Condι 
Nast's Glamour, another magazine with American DNA, is gaining some 
ground on Cosmo in Europe. That fact left Ms. Black feeling a little 
riled, and she tried to export a common all-American business philosophy.
"I want you to go back charged up to squash Glamour, completely 
obliterate them, make them like a little armadillo on the road," she 
said, using a cultural motif that has a bit more resonance in Texas than 
Taiwan. But that may change soon enough.
Copyright 2002 The New York Times Company
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